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AUTHOR'S NOTE:
During the process of compiling and editing this information, I came across leather terms that I had no idea existed. A good number of the terms were taken from a book originally prepared by The Tanners' Council of America, Inc. almost sixty years ago with the objective of providing manufacturers and retailers with accurate information and terminology for use in labeling and advertising their products. Additional terminology has been gleaned from numerous other sources. It seemed that while  each of the sources I researched had a great amount of information on leather terminology none had a complete listing. This book is a compilation of those resources. It offers a glossary of the most important terms used within the leather industry to help you evaluate leather and its qualities.

LEATHER: For the avoidance of all ambiguities and doubts, which may and do grow upon the definition and interpretation of this word leather, it is enacted, and declared by these presents, that the hides and skins of ox, steer, bull, cow, calf, deer, red and fallow, goats and sheep being tanned or tawed, and every salt hide is, shall be, and ever hath been reputed and taken for leather.

Aniline Leather:
Leather which retains its color only from dyestuffs rather than from pigment and as a consequence looks much more natural.  

Aniline-Dyed Leather:
Leather that has been dyed with aniline (a derivative of benzine) dyes, as opposed to those colored with opaque pigments.

Branded Leather:  
Leather that has a mark of a simple, easily recognized pattern made by burning the cattle's skin with a hot iron. Used for identification purposes, brands are normally cut out of the hides and do not appear on quality finished leather.

Buff Hides:  
Country hides (low quality hides removed by butchers and farmers) weighing from 45 to 60 pounds untrimmed and 43 to 58 pounds trimmed.  

Crocking:  
The rubbing off of coloring, finishing materials, or residual buffing dust from leather onto other materials that it comes in contact with.

Crop:  
A "side" of leather with belly trimmed off, retaining both head and shoulder.

Helvetia Leather: 
Oil tanned hide from which not all the excess grease is removed.

Hemlock Leather:  
For many years hemlock extract was used for tanning sole leather, producing a reddish colored leather. In recent years other vegetable tanning agents have almost entirely replaced hemlock.

Hide:  
The whole pelt of a large, mature animal  (horse, cattle, etc.) in contrast to the term "skin," - the pelt of young or small animals.  

In the White; In the Pickle:  
Two roughly equivalent terms used to describe stock which has undergone the processes preliminary to tanning, hair or wool has been removed, and which are preserved in a condition ready for tanning, usually in a wet state, with brine, acid or sometimes alum, but has not been actually tanned. Historically "in the pickle" is restricted to sheepskins and lambskins; "in the white," in this sense, is used for practically all other classes of hides and skins.

Hundreds more terms included! This book covers a brief overview of the history of leather, discusses the tanning process and gives a glossary of terms to hundreds of both contemporary and historic words used in the leather industry. You will want it as a reference for you library!

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